Whaling in Antarctica
Antarctica was explored initially by hunters of two types of marine
mammals: fur seals and whales. Before it became a challenge for
adventurers and explorers, it was secretively mapped out by sealers with
their own favorite islands. Later, whalers established primitive
settlements where the carcasses of their prey could be hauled out and
turned into commercial products. It was to just such a whaling station
on South Georgia Island that Sir Ernest Shackleton turned as the
launching point for his
Transantarctic Expedition, and it was to there that he returned more
dead than alive after his
historic ordeal.
We visited the remains of such a station on Whaler's Bay, inside
Deception Island. These stations became obsolete with the launching of
the giant factory ships which could process the catch at sea. Deception
Island is an active volcano. Its side was breached by an eruption, and
the crater is flooded.

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Whaler's Bay has been designated a historic site, so the
buildings, fuel tanks and rendering vats have been left as they
were after the mudslide from the last eruption. |
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The large tanks were used to store fuel for the ships. The
smaller ones were used to render and store whale oil. |
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Water heated by the volcano wells up by the beach, so some
hardy souls went swimming, |
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Only a few buildings survived the eruptions. A flow of black
volcanic mud swept away all but this stove. |
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The graveyard was once larger, but it too was obliterated by
the eruption. A plaque gave the history of the place. |
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On Half Moon Island we found the remains of a Norwegian
water boat that had been tossed on shore by a storm. The island
also had some weathered whale bones. |
Live Whales
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A couple of times a day the bridge would announce "There's a
whale off the port bow", or "Some Minke whales ahead, We would
jump up and rush to the rail and, if we were lucky, catch sight
of a spout as a whale came up to breath a couple of hundred
yards away. |
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Then one day while we were having dinner,
someone yelled, "Whales!" At first we ignored it
assuming that they would be gone in a few minutes -- not long
enough to go to our cabin and retrieve a camera. However,
some passengers came back and said the whale were still there.
So, Marie couldn't stand it any longer and ran and grabbed the
camera and started taking pictures -- eventually filling the
entire chip.
I think the pod of Humpbacks were just playing with us. I
bet they could hear us squeal as we ran from side to side on the
front deck as the whales went under the ship and surfaced on the
other side.
One of the whales exhaled right by the boat. The
naturalist, said "Ugh! Whale breath." That whale definitely had
halitosis. |
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