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Peru showed us many
different faces. We entered Peru from the south, through the Atacama desert, the
most arid place on the face of the earth. We took a plane from Tacna to Lima, a
giant sprawling city, then up to Cuzco a city steeped in history as the ancient
Inca capital. And Peru contains the central destination of this trip,
Machu Picchu.
Lima
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The first impression of Lima was "why would anyone want to
live here. Coming in from the airport we passed miles of dusty, partially
complete houses, squatters tenements and small shop fronts. We were told
that it never rains in Lima and the humidity varies between 70% and 100%. |
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But once we reached the center of Lima, at the Plaza de
Armas, we started to see the better side of Lima. This is the Cathedral. |
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And right by the Cathedral is the presidential palace, the
home of the executive branch of the government. |
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The San Francisco church is nearby. |
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It dates back to colonial times and has a very beautiful cloister whose
walls are decorated with typical Spanish Azuelos (blue shaded tiles). |
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It also houses an archive of thousands of books from the colonial
period. Their bindings are deteriorating in the tropical climate, but they
have no money for preservation. |
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We also visited the Gold Museum. They didn't allow
photography. |
Cuzco
We flew from Lima to Cuzco early in the morning. I sat in the window seat,
eager to get some great shots of the snow-capped Andes. Guess what! Even at
13,000 feet there was no snow in this area! We needed to be further south if we
wanted to see the 25,000 foot crags with perpetual snow and ice on them. Cuzco
is so close to the equator that it has a very mild climate. Seasons? Rainy and
not-so-rainy. No snow.
We spent a day in Cuzco getting used to the altitude and visiting Inca sites.
The following day we visited Machu Picchu, then
back to Callao where we rejoined the Ryndam.
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Cuzco is a smaller city. We learned that much of the center of town is
built on the bases of the walls built by the Incas. |
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The master stonemasons of the Inca empire trimmed their building stones
so exactly that they fit together perfectly with no need for mortar. The
usual demonstration is that on the finer walls, you can't slip a knife blade
between two stones. |
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The archeologists can tell just how important a structure was by the
quality of the block work. Smooth uniform courses, showing as straight,
level, horizontal lines were used only for temples. The rock fitting became
less painstaking for priests, Kings, nobles, etc. Finally storage buildings
and stables had rock walls similar to the stone fences that one finds in New
England. |
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Cuzco has its own Plaza de Armas, dominated by a large cathedral. |
Temple of the Sun
When the church of Santo Domingo was damaged in a recent earthquake, the
repairs revealed the Inca Temple of the Sun (Qorikancha) underneath it.
Excavations brought to light a very well preserved building
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The church has a very nice cloister built over the temple. |
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The
even rows and uniform blocks show this to be a very important building, a
temple. At one point they must have damaged one of the blocks since we can
see this small patch cut to fit: |
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Some of the Inca decoration was preserved by being plastered over by a
devout Spanish priest. |
Saqsaywaman
Just outside of Cuzco are the ruins of an Inca site with some of the largest
dressed stones in the world.
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