The Lesser Gorges

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lesser01.jpg (349188 bytes)The Daning river joins the Yangtze at Wushan. For most rivers this would be a simple matter, but not for these two. This joining seems to have had as many obstacles as a marriage in  a Jane Austen novel. The Yangtze is busy cutting through mountain ranges from west to east while the Daning is wending its tortuous way from north to south. The result is some more really splendid scenery.

lesser51.jpg (178695 bytes) lesser02.jpg (241879 bytes) The Yangtze Angel ties up at a floating dock at Wushan, a town of over half a million people. We walk across a pontoon bridge to reach the shore. We have some more pictures of everyday life in Wushan: click here.
lesser03.jpg (229050 bytes) lesser04.jpg (248036 bytes) We notice a large black pile off to the left, and a large number of men going rapidly back and forth between it and some blue trucks down by the shore.
lesser05.jpg (275262 bytes) lesser06.jpg (234709 bytes) They are porters, carrying coal from the pile down to the trucks. This gives us a new appreciation for the term "labor intensive."
lesser07.jpg (309972 bytes) There is a bit of a climb from the shore up to where the buses are waiting for us. For those who want the assistance there is a flock of porters with sedan chairs, carrying the tourists up to the buses for a negotiable amount. When Fritz comes into view they suddenly stop hustling. He carries a bubble of awed silence with him as he proceeds to the hill.
lesser08.jpg (198157 bytes) lesser09.jpg (157455 bytes) The buses take us to the mouth of the Daning river where we board the sight-seeing boats.

This is the bridge over the entrance to the Longmen gorge. The bridge is ten meters above where the dam waters will come to, so it will have to be dynamited to allow traffic on the Daning. A new one will be built higher up.

lesser10.jpg (249097 bytes) lesser11.jpg (192981 bytes) The water is fast-moving, clear, and a glacial green as we head upstream. Small rapids toss us around a bit at bends in the river. A couple of times the hull scrapes the rocky bottom. The scenery is wonderful. See it below.
lesser12.jpg (294709 bytes) lesser13.jpg (231726 bytes) We are taking the short cruise. The longer one stops at a number of sights along the way. The vendors are waiting for them.

Some enterprising and athletic young men bring their wares to the boat, running through the shallows and the rapids to do business with us.

lesser14.jpg (296156 bytes) Since olden days there has been a road along the side of the Daning. Here, where there is no shore, the road was attached to the cliff face using beams placed in these holes. They say it was strong enough to bear horses and riders.
lesser15.jpg (329061 bytes) Further upstream, a troop of Rhesus monkeys inhabits the cliff face.
lesser52.jpg (251057 bytes) lesser53.jpg (170444 bytes) In between the gorges, the valley opens up and farms and villages appear.
lesser55.jpg (443373 bytes) The limestone cliffs are full of caves, some of which are just right for a cozy troglodytic dwelling.
lesser16.jpg (281706 bytes) Way up on a cliff face, in an inaccessible cave, the ancient Ba people buried their dead in a wooden coffin. More about this can be seen in the museum at Wanzhou.
lesser33.jpg (378870 bytes) The water seeping through the limestone has cause stalactites to grow from the roof of this overhang. This is the first time we see them outside a cave.
lesser17.jpg (377923 bytes) This lookout post run by the river police can call for help on cell phones if any of the river boats get into trouble.
lesser34.jpg (281720 bytes) The inundation level signs have been put up everywhere as a reminder to the population: The water will be at the 135 meter level in 2003, and at the 175 meter level in 2005. The Three Lesser Gorges will be just a memory. The tourism ministry will need to discover some new scenery.
lesser21.jpg (165639 bytes) lesser20.jpg (327192 bytes) From time to time the river is crossed by a suspension bridge.
lesser45.jpg (120760 bytes) lesser18.jpg (226280 bytes) lesser19.jpg (250733 bytes)After navigating through the three gorges the Daning becomes more placid and we nose into a beach of pebbles, the destination of our trip. The trip back downstream goes all too fast. We are back onboard the Yangtze Angel in time for lunch.

 Scenery along the Three Lesser Gorges

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