A
City for Lovers
We came over the Brenner pass from Innsbruck down into northern Italy, It is one of the oldest routes through the Alps, well known since before the Roman Empire rose. The border region has its own identity. Italians call it the Alto Adige, after the river that carved the passage. Austrians call it the Südtirol. The bilingual road signs reflect the ambiguity. Bozen becomes Bolzano as the German-speaking region fades behind us.
The
hills are dotted with medieval castles built to collect tolls, and ensure the
safety of travelers and goods moving north and south. The high ranges of
the Austrian alps give way to the walls and crags of the Dolomites.
Gradually the valley opens out into the broad. fertile valley of the Po.
We pass Trento, and arrive in Verona,
our first stop.
Shakespeare had heard much of Verona, even if he had not visited here. It's the setting for his comedy "Two Gentlemen of Verona" and for his famous romantic tragedy "Romeo and Juliet." Verona is said to be a very romantic city so it makes the romance seem more real. It is also very hot in summer. Afraid that a fight will break out in the mid-summer heat, Romeo's kinsman Benvolio tells Mercutio:
"The day is hot, the Capulets abroad,
And, if we meet, we shall not scape a brawl;
For now these hot days is the mad blood stirring ." (Act III sc. 1)
We look for shaded places to walk.
Roman
Roots
Like most Italian cities, Verona goes back to before Roman times, gaining importance as the place to cross the Adige and as the crossroads between east-west and north-south travel. Starting in 89 BC the Romans expanded it and built bridges and an aqueduct, turning it into a regional center. The well-preserved arena is still used for concerts and other events. We are told that most of the buildings in the old town are built on the foundations of Roman buildings.
Street Scenes
 The ancient Roman gate became part of the medieval walls |
 This balcony overlooks the Piazza Bra. |
 Torre dei Lamberti is at the south end of the Piazza delle Erbe. |
 We walked to the Piazza delle Erbe for lunch. |
 The market was in full swing in the Piazza delle Erbe |
 Narrow streets, such as the Via Mazzini, provide shade. |
The House of the Capulets
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Romeo and Juliet are still the big tourist draw in Verona. The plaque on the front of Juliet's house reads: "These were the dwellings of the Capulets whence came that Juliet for whom kind hearts cried and poets sang." A balcony was added to appease Shakespeare fans. For a few Euro, you can go up there for a photo. Lovers used to write their declarations on the walls. Now they use Post-It notes.
On to Venice
After our brief stay in Verona, we are off to our next stop: Venice, Queen of the Adriatic. The castles along this road look to be from a later period than the medieval ones guarding the Brenner Pass.