Far-out Paris

The Eighteenth Arondissement, on the northern edge of Paris, surrounds the high hill of Montmartre, surmounted by the dazzling white domes of the Sacré Coeur Basilica, visible from the whole city. Until 1860 Montmartre was a separate village outside the walls of Paris. Taxes were lower there, and people came to drink and take in the exuberant entertainment. Pretty soon an artists colony grew at the top of the hill, while nightclubs blossomed at the foot around the Place Pigalle and Place Blanche.

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Our Neighborhood

 I did an on-line search for a vacation rental in Paris with a king-size bed. We found one near Montmartre, offered by Feels Like Home in Paris. It was a wonderful experience, comfortable, clean, convenient, and very Parisian. The neighborhood was away from the tourist area, and had all the conveniences necessary for the good life in Paris.

The apartment had a separate bedroom, a full kitchen, washer/dryer, wi-fi and a library of guide books.

We looked out on the rue Caulincourt which curls gently up the side of the Butte Montmartre.

Fresh produce and freshly squeezed juice were available a few steps from our door.

The bus going downtown stopped by our doorstep, and the Lamark-Caulincourt metro stop was just up the hill.

A mini-bus able to take the narrow streets of Montmartre serves just that area.

We got to know the waiters at the local restaurant.

Fresh croissants and bread were available every morning at the boulangerie (bakery).

On the days the bakery down the street was closed, we went to the one up the street.

The boulangerie is also a patisserie. I can stop after just one.. sure I can!

If you carry a collapsible cup you can get a drink from a Wallace Fountain.

Wednesdays and Saturdays are market days on the nearby rue Ordener

Very fresh seafood

All the ingredients for ratatouille.

The supermarket has fresh produce also

Horse meat is sold from a Boucherie Chevaline such as this.

The Tourist Area

We were staying on the west side of the hill. The only time the tourists intruded on us was when the little white sightseeing tram came trundling up the street. We discovered that, while our place was within walking distance of Sacré Coeur, Sacré Coeur was not within walking distance of our place. "Walking" is non-commutative because Sacré Coeur is more than 100 feet higher than where we were staying. Luckily the Montmartrobus was covered by our pass, and took us to the top of the hill.

Montmartre has retained much of its old small village charm. Old houses, narrow streets, stairs, breathtaking views all combine to make it a very popular tourist destination.

Sacré Coeur Basilica

L'Heure Bleue

Montmartre is a very steep hill. Many streets are staircases.

Au Lapin Agile

The rabbit demonstrates his agility

Le Moulin de la Galette

Le Clos Montmartre, Paris' only remaining vineyard. The white building is the back of the Montmartre museum.

The Museum of Montmartre. Photography is not allowed, so we forgot what we saw. Sorry.

The vineyard as seen from the museum. The pink wall belongs to the Lapin Agile

Maurice Utrillo and other artists are buried in the Saint-Vincent Cemetery

La Maison Rose was painted by Utrillo and others. It's now a restaurant.

House of military historian Henry Lachouque (1883 - 1971)